Train and the First of Three Glorious Weekends At Ravinia

After returning from our trip Sonoma to BBQ and drink wine with both old friends and new friends, we had scheduled three weekends in a row to be at the Ravinia Festival. This is truly one of the great treasures of the Chicago area during the summer. The eclectic mix of entertainers who come through Ravinia every season is a real treat.

This year has been no exception to that rule. Over the course of three weekends, we traveled from Pop to Easy Listening/Big Band to Rhythm and Blues as Train, Tony Bennett and Anita Baker all came to town. Each brings not only an original sound but their own audience as well.  All three concerts were sold out and while I don't know the number of people in the audience, judging from how we were packed in like sardines, it had to be well over 10,000 per concert.

Just getting started!

And here's where the best $75 I've ever spent came into play. Because I made a gift to the Festival, I was able to get in 30 minutes before the mongrel horde was.  Nothing like walking up to the member gate while everyone else is standing in line out to the parking lot!

Being of an age where I'm not always "up" on the hottest pop/rock groups, I wasn't sure what a Train was. I am quite familiar with Duke Ellington's "Take the A Train" but Train . . .  not so much.

But then again, we were at Ravinia so frankly the music, in my mind, is almost secondary. This great venue for a picnic and music is one of my favorite summer spots. Nothing like relaxing around a picnic dinner, drinking some truly fabulous wines and enjoying some music on a Sunday night.

Having set up before everyone in our favorite spot (with a view to the screens behind the stage), we could relax as the gates opened and several thousand people rush the venue trying to find their ideal spot. I'm frankly a little surprised that no one was trampled on the way in.

For us, this is the perfect time. We've already opened a bottle of wine and are now calmly sipping away. We have some food out and we're enjoying not having been nearly killed on the entrance to the park.

The line up for Train. As you can see, the Venom is empty already.

We're on the phone as some friends are trying to find their way into the park and toward our spot. For tonight's concert I've chosen some really delicious wines from Seghesio, Barbera, Venom, Sonoma Zinfandel, Home Ranch Zinfandel and the San Lorenzo Zinfandel along with a bottle of stainless Chardonnay from Chamisal Vineyards.

These should go really well with our cheese and charcuterie, grilled romaine and portabella mushroom salad, grilled chicken skewers, fruit and olives.

While waiting for friends to arrive, we had a glass or two of Seghesio's Venom.  I love what winemaker Ted says of this wine (grown on Rattlesnake Hill on the Home Ranch): "Venom is the antidote for all other previously consumed bad Sangiovese." I understand that Sangiovese isn't one of the easiest grapes to grow or wines to make. Venom is truly a work of art.

After every inch of space around us had be covered with a blanket, a folding chair or a table of some sort, we finished putting out the food.  One of my favorites is this grilled romaine salad that I've put together.

There's something about grilling the romaine hearts that brings out a little nutty flavor.  At the same time, roasting the portabella mushrooms, peppers and corn brings out a special flavor. What really kicks it off, though, is the homemade dressing.

For my brother who's allergic to mustard, it could be considered "killer." But it's really very simple.  If you'd like the recipe for this delicious salad, be sure to respond to this post.  I'll be happy to give it out.

When our friends arrived, we put the finishing touches on the food and the wine.  This was the first visit to Ravinia for Megan, Jason, Deanna and Erick. Now all that was necessary was a little birthday celebration and to sit back and to enjoy the music as Train rolls through Ravinia.

While I know August was your birthday month, Jason, maybe you can continue the celebration a little longer.  Thanks for sharing your birthday with us . . . and about 16,000 other folks.

Not that it really mattered at all by this point, but the music was really quite good -- if this not quite too old guy can say so.  The challenge with the concert being on a Sunday night is that work rolls around Monday morning so it can't be too late.

I suppose there are 50 Ways to Say Goodbye but since there are two more glorious weekends at Ravinia coming up (with Tony Bennett and Anita Baker) I won't say goodbye yet. Just come back next week for more of Mondays @ Marks!

Leaving Wine Country for San Francisco

Sadly our time in Wine Country had come to an end over a leisurly breakfast at the hotel. The Dry Creek Inn had exceeded all my expectations and so had the various wineries we visited. While I didn't buy wine from all that we visited, I wasn't disappointed in a single vineyard.

Now over breakfast, we decided that rather than try to visit one more winery on the way to dropping my brother and sister-in-law off at the San Francisco airport we would head there straight away. As it turns out, the decision was probably a good one.

While I had rented a full sized car, trying to get all of the luggage into the trunk was a little bit of a puzzle what with four suitcases and various bags with wine and other purchases in them. Not to single my brother and sister-in-law out but their suitcases were bigger -- clearly not intended to be carried on.

Taking the 101 south into the city, we encountered more traffic than I envisioned for mid-morning. As a result it made the best sense to drop my brother and sister-in-law off and then decide how to spend the rest of the day.

After dropping them off for their flight home (and hoping they don't have one cancelled again), we headed into the city to find a cup of coffee and some free Wi-Fi. Turns out we found Peet's but the free Wi-Fi was perhaps unable to handle the volume of use in the coffee shop as my connection was dropped repeatedly.

Our first task of the day was to figure out where we were going to stay so a quick stop to Hotels.com and various other sites to identify a  potential winner.  We were intrigued by the Hotel Kabuki in Japantown. We had stayed somewhere close to this area the last time but ended up at a different boutique hotel.

Having made reservations, we were free to wander our way over there.  Now I've been pretty impressed by my phone (a recent addition) even if it is a little bigger than most (it's a Samsung Galaxy Note). But the challenge with using it as a GPS device is it drains the battery -- even if it's charging! So having used it to find the Peet's and the Hotel, I was concerned I would run out of "juice" before getting to our first destination for the day . . . Chinatown.

Chicago has a vibrant Chinatown -- one that I remember my grandfather taking us to at least annually when I was a child -- but it's certainly not San Francisco's Chinatown. So far this trip had all the earmarks of my style of travel.  Find a destination and then figure out what to do.  Chinatown was no exception. 

Having found a city garage to park in, Roxanne went across the street to check out any information in the hotel lobby while I found a seat in Portsmouth Square to people watch. As usual I am not disappointed.  This park is filled with women playing Mah Jong, card games and spirited debates. None of which I could understand because they weren't in my native language -- American English.

We decided to head down Grant Avenue (apparently we were doing Chinatown backwards!) to see about finding a place for lunch. As a bit of a foodie and sometime amateur chef, I love sticking my head into the local groceries -- especially the ones with produce on the street to lead you into the market.  I also tend to visit the gadget stores as well. 

Having picked our restaurant, we were quickly seated (probably had missed the lunch crowd because it was now close to 2pm. We sat down and ordered some hot tea and one of the special meals and watched the fish in the fish tank and as the servers and cooking staff ate their lunch as well.

Proceeding down Grant Street, we poked our heads into a few shops along the way before turning around and heading back to the car. Our goal was to try and get some good pictures of the Golden Gate Bridge. The challenge is that everytime we tried to get a picture on previous trips there was some fog that made it almost invisible.

This time, armed with a little knowledge, we made our way to Crissy Field.  This former military airfield has been restored to a beautiful park with running paths and some of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Winding our way past Fisherman's Wharf, we found ourselves in the Crissy Field National Park. Headturning views of the bridge -- that is if you used your imagination for a bit because it was covered in fog.

After a nice walk around, the fog burned off and we prepared for a sunset photo of the bridge.  Seeing as we had a couple of hours before sunset, we went back to Fisherman's Wharf to grab a bit of something to eat that we could take back as a picnic dinner.

But first, no trip is complete without a trip to Tiernan's Irish Pub for an Irish Coffee. This place is historic. Not only do they make the best Irish Coffee's, but it's a warm, inviting pub. Just what you're looking for in a neighborhood institution. We were a bit early for the crowd, but I was here a number of years ago on a Friday night and you couldn't even move.

The Irish certainly have a way with their coffee. I am a huge fan of coffee and, as it so happens, of Irish Whiskey, too.  I'm particularly fond of Bushmill's. (And I don't even need the whipped cream but it's a nice touch!). 

So after a wee bit of coffee we made our way down to Fisherman's Wharf to pick up a crab roll and a few other fixin's to take back to Crissy Field for a picnic dinner. Trying to get the perfect photo turned out to be a bit of extra work. Ok, perhaps not work but time.

After the sun set, we headed back to the hotel.  This clearly Japanese hotel is not only beautiful, it's peaceful. The decor and the rooms are designed for comfort. Pushing back the Japanese screens and then the glass doors and stepping out on the tiny balcony, the views are nice but not spectacular. Unlike other parts of the city, the streets aren't terribly busy.

I do like that there's a pot to boil water for tea and a tea pot to steep it in. It's a nice change as I turn in for the night. In the morning, I ordered the traditional Japanese breakfast (or should I say brunch). It's a Bento Box filled with smoked salmon, a scrambled egg, fruit and some pickled vegetables along with a bowl of rice and some miso soup.

After a morning stroll around Japantown and picking up some noodles we made one last stop at Crissy Field to each lunch watching the bay and enjoying the beautiful sunshine. After a quick stop again at Humphrey-Slocombe for one last taste (and to purchase their recipe book and a couple of mugs!) we were off to the airport and on our way home.

Just as I found heading home from Paris after a week, it's easy to see why it would take a lifetime to see and experience all of the sights and opportunities in this great part of the country. Not only that, we've made some new friends and renewed relationships with some old friends along the way.

These are the memories that will keep us warm through the long, often too cold winters of Chicago! Thanks for going along with me on this trip of a lifetime . . . one that I hope gets repeated over and over again.

Making the Most of Wine Country, Day 5

It's our last full day in Sonoma before heading back to San Francisco so we wanted to savor this day and extend it to its fullest.  We began by taking advantage of the free breakfast at the Dry Creek Inn. 

While perhaps not the gourmet breakfast we experienced at the Grape Leaf Inn in Healdsburg (what a tremendous place to stay!) it was filling and for those of us with a little Dutch in our heritage it was, well, the best possible thing. 

Free.

Having filled up on the free breakfast, we began the day by heading north into the Alexander Valley to try a couple of new wineries and some old favorites from previous visits.  We began by heading to the Fritz winery. 

The lake below the Fritz Winery

We'd never been to this winery before but it's in a beautiful setting.  The cellars are built into the side of the mountain and the vineyards back up to Lake Sonoma. We arrived just as the tasting room was opening and were the first visitors of the day.  They provide a couple of options for tasting.

Being primarily a red wine drinker, we chose the red wine flight. We chose not to taste the rose but after our tasting at V-M-L I have to say I left regretting that choice.



The entrance to the Fritz Winery

Since it was early, we enjoyed sharing the tasting. Having been the first to arrive for the day, our host was most generous with the pours and providing a few additional tastings as well.  It keeps everyone in a position to enjoy the whole day.

And unlike others, perhaps, the idea of spitting out the wine after tasting is a bit unappealing to me. Like I said . . . with a Dutch heritage we believe in the ol' "waste not want not" philosophy.

For our next visit, we'll plan a little better and make a reservation for a tour of the winery facility.  The visionary founder really embraced the concept of sustainability and built the facility underground.

We really enjoyed their 2010 Russian River Pinot Noir. So after purchasing a couple of bottles (which got the tasting thrown in!) we were on our way.

The view south into Dry Creek Valley from the terrace.

Our next stop was to visit famed winemaker Ed Sbragia's tasting room just below the Lake Sonoma Dam.  With a terrace overlooking both the dam and down into the Dry Creek Valley, the views from the winery are spectacular.  So are the wines.

After an award winning 20 plus year tenure at Beringer Vineyards, Ed and his wife, Jane, purchased the old Lake Sonoma Winery and began their small, family-owned winery on the site.

Our al fresco lunch on the terrace!

While at Beringer, Ed won many accolades for his Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons.  He's done the same with his own winery as he's crafted, along with his son, Adam, some really fabulous single vineyard cabernets.  I have also really enjoyed his Zinfandel from the La Promessa vineyard to honor a commitment to his father, Gino, to open a family vineyard.

After a tasting of some spectacular red wines we purchased a bottle of his Chardonnay, some cheese, a little salami and some gluten free crackers. Taking that out on the terrace we really enjoyed our al fresco lunch.

It was nice to take a bit of a timeout from the tasting since we had the rest of the day ahead of us. Our next stop was one of my favorite places in Sonoma -- the Frick Winery.  This little winery is owned and operated by Bill Frick.  He's crafting some of the most unusual wines I've every tasted. 

Arriving at the Frick Winery. 

What sets Bill apart from the rest of the winemakers in the region is his focus on French varietals such as Cinsaut, Counoise, Carignane among others and he crafts a number of delicous blends as well as the specific varietals.  One of our favorites is the Cotes-du-Dry Creek a play on the French Cotes du Rhone.

His small tasting room provides an intimate atmosphere.  It's only open on the weekends from 12:30 to 4:30. Why the short hours. Because among other things, he's winemaker, vineyard worker, celler rat, and the host at the tasting room.

This is a winery not to be missed.

When we arrived, we were the only ones in the tasting room which can handle somewhere between six and eight people at a time. His approach to the tasting is quite different. Instead of a pre-determined flight of wines to taste, you can choose a certain number off the menu and make your own wine tasting.

After tasting a number of different wines, we made a couple of purchases. First, because of shipping restrictions we purchased a couple of bottles to bring home with us in addition to the wine we are having shipped.  After a bit of a mix up with my credit card (apparently they were trying to protect me from myself for the second time in the week), I ordered a couple of mixed cases and we purchased a couple of hats and some wine glasses.

Since we only had a little more time, we made our way back to V-M-L winery for a tasting before heading toward the coast. We had visited this winery on our first day.  I was intrigued by the giant-sized Jenga tower outside (an idea worth stealing for my backyard).

We went inside where this time I wasn't going to hold back on the rose wine. While all of their wines were delicious, I really enjoyed something that normally doesn't hit my wine palate. After a nice tasting and the purchase of a couple of bottles, we began the drive down Westside Drive on our way to the ocean. Those of us from the Midwest rarely have this opportunity.  The closest we come are the Great Lakes but they're not really ocean scenic.

But before hitting the ocean we made a quick stop at the Korbel Winery. We did a quick tasting of some of their California Champagne. A quick note about the name. Normally only wine coming from the Champagne region of France can legally be called Champagne but because the historic nature of their wines they can continue to do so.

I must add that Champagne is not among my favorites -- even Champagne from the appropriate region in France. After a few minutes in this beautiful area near the coast we continued our way down to the ocean

I never tire of seeing the ocean -- especially in sun drenched California. We couldn't help be be awed by the views as we drove down Highway 1 along the ocean.

We made several stops including one that allowed us to actually wade into the ocean. The temperature wasn't as mild as I anticipated but it wasn't nearly as cold as a visit a few years ago to Maine.

When you travel from the Midwest and you have an opportunity to dip your toes in an ocean you take advantage of it.  After winding our way down the coast and a couple of stops we made our way back to Healdsburg.  We didn't have any plans for dinner Sunday night and after all that we experienced in just a few short days it was time to catch our breath a little bit.

We stopped at the Healdsburg Safeway and picked up a rotisserie chicken and a few other finger foods and headed back to the Dry Creek Inn.  Over in the Tuscan building there's a beautiful courtyard complete with a gas fireplace.

With a number of different wines from our travels this week, we opened a bottle from the Frick winery and another from Seghesio and relaxed as the sun set and we were ending our time in the Sonoma Wine Country.

Next week I'll let you in on a spot that most folks visiting San Francisco probably don't visit but has great views of the Golden Gate Bridge. I'm already trying to figure out if a week is enough to visit all my favorite wineries on my next visit to Sonoma and still find some new ones.