Making the Most of Wine Country, Day 5

It's our last full day in Sonoma before heading back to San Francisco so we wanted to savor this day and extend it to its fullest.  We began by taking advantage of the free breakfast at the Dry Creek Inn. 

While perhaps not the gourmet breakfast we experienced at the Grape Leaf Inn in Healdsburg (what a tremendous place to stay!) it was filling and for those of us with a little Dutch in our heritage it was, well, the best possible thing. 

Free.

Having filled up on the free breakfast, we began the day by heading north into the Alexander Valley to try a couple of new wineries and some old favorites from previous visits.  We began by heading to the Fritz winery. 

The lake below the Fritz Winery

We'd never been to this winery before but it's in a beautiful setting.  The cellars are built into the side of the mountain and the vineyards back up to Lake Sonoma. We arrived just as the tasting room was opening and were the first visitors of the day.  They provide a couple of options for tasting.

Being primarily a red wine drinker, we chose the red wine flight. We chose not to taste the rose but after our tasting at V-M-L I have to say I left regretting that choice.



The entrance to the Fritz Winery

Since it was early, we enjoyed sharing the tasting. Having been the first to arrive for the day, our host was most generous with the pours and providing a few additional tastings as well.  It keeps everyone in a position to enjoy the whole day.

And unlike others, perhaps, the idea of spitting out the wine after tasting is a bit unappealing to me. Like I said . . . with a Dutch heritage we believe in the ol' "waste not want not" philosophy.

For our next visit, we'll plan a little better and make a reservation for a tour of the winery facility.  The visionary founder really embraced the concept of sustainability and built the facility underground.

We really enjoyed their 2010 Russian River Pinot Noir. So after purchasing a couple of bottles (which got the tasting thrown in!) we were on our way.

The view south into Dry Creek Valley from the terrace.

Our next stop was to visit famed winemaker Ed Sbragia's tasting room just below the Lake Sonoma Dam.  With a terrace overlooking both the dam and down into the Dry Creek Valley, the views from the winery are spectacular.  So are the wines.

After an award winning 20 plus year tenure at Beringer Vineyards, Ed and his wife, Jane, purchased the old Lake Sonoma Winery and began their small, family-owned winery on the site.

Our al fresco lunch on the terrace!

While at Beringer, Ed won many accolades for his Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons.  He's done the same with his own winery as he's crafted, along with his son, Adam, some really fabulous single vineyard cabernets.  I have also really enjoyed his Zinfandel from the La Promessa vineyard to honor a commitment to his father, Gino, to open a family vineyard.

After a tasting of some spectacular red wines we purchased a bottle of his Chardonnay, some cheese, a little salami and some gluten free crackers. Taking that out on the terrace we really enjoyed our al fresco lunch.

It was nice to take a bit of a timeout from the tasting since we had the rest of the day ahead of us. Our next stop was one of my favorite places in Sonoma -- the Frick Winery.  This little winery is owned and operated by Bill Frick.  He's crafting some of the most unusual wines I've every tasted. 

Arriving at the Frick Winery. 

What sets Bill apart from the rest of the winemakers in the region is his focus on French varietals such as Cinsaut, Counoise, Carignane among others and he crafts a number of delicous blends as well as the specific varietals.  One of our favorites is the Cotes-du-Dry Creek a play on the French Cotes du Rhone.

His small tasting room provides an intimate atmosphere.  It's only open on the weekends from 12:30 to 4:30. Why the short hours. Because among other things, he's winemaker, vineyard worker, celler rat, and the host at the tasting room.

This is a winery not to be missed.

When we arrived, we were the only ones in the tasting room which can handle somewhere between six and eight people at a time. His approach to the tasting is quite different. Instead of a pre-determined flight of wines to taste, you can choose a certain number off the menu and make your own wine tasting.

After tasting a number of different wines, we made a couple of purchases. First, because of shipping restrictions we purchased a couple of bottles to bring home with us in addition to the wine we are having shipped.  After a bit of a mix up with my credit card (apparently they were trying to protect me from myself for the second time in the week), I ordered a couple of mixed cases and we purchased a couple of hats and some wine glasses.

Since we only had a little more time, we made our way back to V-M-L winery for a tasting before heading toward the coast. We had visited this winery on our first day.  I was intrigued by the giant-sized Jenga tower outside (an idea worth stealing for my backyard).

We went inside where this time I wasn't going to hold back on the rose wine. While all of their wines were delicious, I really enjoyed something that normally doesn't hit my wine palate. After a nice tasting and the purchase of a couple of bottles, we began the drive down Westside Drive on our way to the ocean. Those of us from the Midwest rarely have this opportunity.  The closest we come are the Great Lakes but they're not really ocean scenic.

But before hitting the ocean we made a quick stop at the Korbel Winery. We did a quick tasting of some of their California Champagne. A quick note about the name. Normally only wine coming from the Champagne region of France can legally be called Champagne but because the historic nature of their wines they can continue to do so.

I must add that Champagne is not among my favorites -- even Champagne from the appropriate region in France. After a few minutes in this beautiful area near the coast we continued our way down to the ocean

I never tire of seeing the ocean -- especially in sun drenched California. We couldn't help be be awed by the views as we drove down Highway 1 along the ocean.

We made several stops including one that allowed us to actually wade into the ocean. The temperature wasn't as mild as I anticipated but it wasn't nearly as cold as a visit a few years ago to Maine.

When you travel from the Midwest and you have an opportunity to dip your toes in an ocean you take advantage of it.  After winding our way down the coast and a couple of stops we made our way back to Healdsburg.  We didn't have any plans for dinner Sunday night and after all that we experienced in just a few short days it was time to catch our breath a little bit.

We stopped at the Healdsburg Safeway and picked up a rotisserie chicken and a few other finger foods and headed back to the Dry Creek Inn.  Over in the Tuscan building there's a beautiful courtyard complete with a gas fireplace.

With a number of different wines from our travels this week, we opened a bottle from the Frick winery and another from Seghesio and relaxed as the sun set and we were ending our time in the Sonoma Wine Country.

Next week I'll let you in on a spot that most folks visiting San Francisco probably don't visit but has great views of the Golden Gate Bridge. I'm already trying to figure out if a week is enough to visit all my favorite wineries on my next visit to Sonoma and still find some new ones.

Sonoma County Wine Country, Day 1

After arriving in Wine Country very early this morning, we began the day with the free breakfast at the Best Western Dry Creek Inn in Healdsburg.  Now I normally would put the Best Western down in the category of a Red Roof Inn, cheap, semi-safe lodging but the Dry Creek Inn could change your perspective.

Yes there is an outdoor entrance. However, access to the complex is only through a key so it's as safe as any indoor access lodging.  No worries there.  As far as the rooms are concerned, this one has a nice balcony overlooking a courtyard.  There's a reason why this is referred to as the Tuscan wing.  The room is equipped with a king bed, a fireplace, a jacuzzi tub and a shower. Like I said, not your standard fare.

While the free breakfast isn't necessarily fine dining, it's decent and filling.  No sense wasting dollars on breakfast when there's wine tasting to be had and other great meals. I'm not one to to be too picky when it comes to breakfast.  At least the coffee was strong and hot!

V-M-L Winery

After a late breakfast we began the vacation day in the very best way -- with no agenda and no idea where we were going to stop.  Leaving the hotel and wandering south on Westside Road we came to a beautiful winery called V-M-L.  The initials stand for the winemaker, Virginia Marie Lambrix.  The gardens leading up to the tasting room were absolutely stunning.

When we got into the tasting room, we found the wines to rival the gardens.  Stunning. V-M-L is an artisan winery specializing in Pinot Noir.  While all of their offerings in the tasting were delicious, I found myself surprised by the Rose of Pinot.

I'm not really a Rose sort of guy.  Actually, I usually categorize it akin to a White Zin. So much for being a wine snob.  This is the sort of wine that I can easily be drinking on the back porch on a warm summer day.  (Note to self: Let go of your preconceived ideas about wine!)

With the purchase of a couple of bottles for the room this week, the tasting was free.

Gardens at V-M-L

When I come to Wine Country, I'm looking for those out-of-the-way, previously unheard of (by me at least) wineries.  So having enjoyed one new find, I inquired about others on our way south.  First on the list was John Tyler Wines.

Haven't heard of them?  Neither had I.  That's good for a start.  We pulled into a relatively new tasting room.  It wasn't surrounded by lush gardens or a massive structure.  It's a simple building just off of Westside Road.

While the building may be new, the family behind the wines -- the Bacigalupi family -- aren't newbies.  They've been growing grapes for other wineries for years.  Only recently did they begin crafting their own wines.  Obviously, they've learned something along the way.

If you've heard of the movie Bottle Shock then you may know of their grapes.  You see, the vines from one of their vineyards produced the grapes that Chateau Montelena used to send the international wine world into a frenzy.

Being of German ancestry can't be any happier when the French are turned upside down!

On my last trip to Sonoma, it was the Frick Winery that was the surprise find of the visit.  This time, I'm thinking it's going to be John Tyler Wines.  After being greeted by 4-month old Cali, we were treated to an insightful tasting and history of the winery by Nicole. They are making some really wonderful Pinot Noirs.

The Japanese Garden @ Arista is stunning!

What was nice about the visit was the insight not only into the wines but also the growing of the grapes.  The difference in wine from different vineyards no more than a few miles from each other. Couldn't leave without purchasing another bottle for the week.

After a nice visit and a recommendation to head down to Arista Vineyards (the second recommendation for Arista in two stops) we meandered our way down to Arista for a tasting.  Once again we were greeted by a phenomenal view and spectacular gardens.  The tasting was primarily Pinot again.  After all, we're in the Russian River Valley.  It's amazing the difference a few miles can make in the climate.

In our own meandering way, we stumbled upon three previously unheard of wineries and found some really spectacular wines.  And some great advice and recommendations. After telling Jeff of our thoughts for lunch, he steered us to the Francis Ford Coppola Winery for a spectacular view and really fine food.

Much like his films, the winery itself is a monument.  You could probably spend a day just visiting the various parts of the winery.  You can even see his Oscars in a case on the second floor.  But that's not even the best part, it's the spectacular view from the terrace of the restaurant.

I ordered a glass of the Director's Cut Cinema red wine to go along with the Moroccan Lamb for two. I'm not sure I can put into words how delicious both were.  The Cinema is a big wine and it held up well with the lamb.

It is cooked for hours in what looks like a stoneware vase.  It comes to the table, along with a plate of couscous, and served from the vase. It's the most tender lamb I've ever had -- and I try to get lamb every opportunity I can.

Frankly, there was enough lamb for four people. Unfortunately there was only enough couscous for 1-1/2 people.  The only disappointment in the dish because everything was delicious.

After putting a dent into the lamb and a short night, I have to say I was ready for a nap.  I know what you're thinking and yes it's true.  I can't push through like I could when I was 40 and not 50.  After a refreshing nap, we went up to Diavola Pizzeria for dinner.

We heard about Diavola from Seghesio's Enologist Sonja last year when we were here for a special Seghesio event.  Her husband owns the pizzeria and salumeria.  This place was packed when we got there but with a few seats open at the bar, we took those.  After the huge lunch, we didn't have a big appetite but the wood fired pizzas looked to die for.

We ordered the Bambino which came with house smoked salumi along with a little basil on top along with the house Dego Red wine.  No I'm not trying to be a racist, that's what they call it. We saw a lot of it being poured and we know why that is.  Delicious.

The pizza came out and was better than advertised.  Colin and Dino, GM and chef respectively, have a tremendous business. If you find yourself within 50 miles of Geyserville, take the trip and find this gem of a restaurant. Not much more to do today but head back to the hotel and rest up.

As Scarlett O'Hara once said: tomorrow's going to be a better. day!