Monday, July 30, 2012

Sonoma County Wine Country, Day 1

After arriving in Wine Country very early this morning, we began the day with the free breakfast at the Best Western Dry Creek Inn in Healdsburg.  Now I normally would put the Best Western down in the category of a Red Roof Inn, cheap, semi-safe lodging but the Dry Creek Inn could change your perspective.

Yes there is an outdoor entrance. However, access to the complex is only through a key so it's as safe as any indoor access lodging.  No worries there.  As far as the rooms are concerned, this one has a nice balcony overlooking a courtyard.  There's a reason why this is referred to as the Tuscan wing.  The room is equipped with a king bed, a fireplace, a jacuzzi tub and a shower. Like I said, not your standard fare.

While the free breakfast isn't necessarily fine dining, it's decent and filling.  No sense wasting dollars on breakfast when there's wine tasting to be had and other great meals. I'm not one to to be too picky when it comes to breakfast.  At least the coffee was strong and hot!
V-M-L Winery

After a late breakfast we began the vacation day in the very best way -- with no agenda and no idea where we were going to stop.  Leaving the hotel and wandering south on Westside Road we came to a beautiful winery called V-M-L.  The initials stand for the winemaker, Virginia Marie Lambrix.  The gardens leading up to the tasting room were absolutely stunning.

When we got into the tasting room, we found the wines to rival the gardens.  Stunning. V-M-L is an artisan winery specializing in Pinot Noir.  While all of their offerings in the tasting were delicious, I found myself surprised by the Rose of Pinot.

I'm not really a Rose sort of guy.  Actually, I usually categorize it akin to a White Zin. So much for being a wine snob.  This is the sort of wine that I can easily be drinking on the back porch on a warm summer day.  (Note to self: Let go of your preconceived ideas about wine!)

With the purchase of a couple of bottles for the room this week, the tasting was free.

Gardens at V-M-L
When I come to Wine Country, I'm looking for those out-of-the-way, previously unheard of (by me at least) wineries.  So having enjoyed one new find, I inquired about others on our way south.  First on the list was John Tyler Wines.

Haven't heard of them?  Neither had I.  That's good for a start.  We pulled into a relatively new tasting room.  It wasn't surrounded by lush gardens or a massive structure.  It's a simple building just off of Westside Road.

While the building may be new, the family behind the wines -- the Bacigalupi family -- aren't newbies.  They've been growing grapes for other wineries for years.  Only recently did they begin crafting their own wines.  Obviously, they've learned something along the way.

If you've heard of the movie Bottle Shock then you may know of their grapes.  You see, the vines from one of their vineyards produced the grapes that Chateau Montelena used to send the international wine world into a frenzy.

Being of German ancestry can't be any happier when the French are turned upside down!

On my last trip to Sonoma, it was the Frick Winery that was the surprise find of the visit.  This time, I'm thinking it's going to be John Tyler Wines.  After being greeted by 4-month old Cali, we were treated to an insightful tasting and history of the winery by Nicole. They are making some really wonderful Pinot Noirs.

The Japanese Garden @ Arista is stunning!
What was nice about the visit was the insight not only into the wines but also the growing of the grapes.  The difference in wine from different vineyards no more than a few miles from each other. Couldn't leave without purchasing another bottle for the week.

After a nice visit and a recommendation to head down to Arista Vineyards (the second recommendation for Arista in two stops) we meandered our way down to Arista for a tasting.  Once again we were greeted by a phenomenal view and spectacular gardens.  The tasting was primarily Pinot again.  After all, we're in the Russian River Valley.  It's amazing the difference a few miles can make in the climate.

In our own meandering way, we stumbled upon three previously unheard of wineries and found some really spectacular wines.  And some great advice and recommendations. After telling Jeff of our thoughts for lunch, he steered us to the Francis Ford Coppola Winery for a spectacular view and really fine food.

Much like his films, the winery itself is a monument.  You could probably spend a day just visiting the various parts of the winery.  You can even see his Oscars in a case on the second floor.  But that's not even the best part, it's the spectacular view from the terrace of the restaurant.

I ordered a glass of the Director's Cut Cinema red wine to go along with the Moroccan Lamb for two. I'm not sure I can put into words how delicious both were.  The Cinema is a big wine and it held up well with the lamb.

It is cooked for hours in what looks like a stoneware vase.  It comes to the table, along with a plate of couscous, and served from the vase. It's the most tender lamb I've ever had -- and I try to get lamb every opportunity I can.

Frankly, there was enough lamb for four people. Unfortunately there was only enough couscous for 1-1/2 people.  The only disappointment in the dish because everything was delicious.

After putting a dent into the lamb and a short night, I have to say I was ready for a nap.  I know what you're thinking and yes it's true.  I can't push through like I could when I was 40 and not 50.  After a refreshing nap, we went up to Diavola Pizzeria for dinner.

We heard about Diavola from Seghesio's Enologist Sonja last year when we were here for a special Seghesio event.  Her husband owns the pizzeria and salumeria.  This place was packed when we got there but with a few seats open at the bar, we took those.  After the huge lunch, we didn't have a big appetite but the wood fired pizzas looked to die for.

We ordered the Bambino which came with house smoked salumi along with a little basil on top along with the house Dego Red wine.  No I'm not trying to be a racist, that's what they call it. We saw a lot of it being poured and we know why that is.  Delicious.

The pizza came out and was better than advertised.  Colin and Dino, GM and chef respectively, have a tremendous business. If you find yourself within 50 miles of Geyserville, take the trip and find this gem of a restaurant. Not much more to do today but head back to the hotel and rest up.

As Scarlett O'Hara once said: tomorrow's going to be a better. day!

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